Here is something which is very important with log houses constructed in this style. Because the logs used for the external walls will “Settle” down with time, but the internal stud walls will be relatively stable, you have to engineer in space between the floor joist system and the internal walls and have method to adjust the floor joists down as the external logs settle. Our floor joists fix to this central beam which sits on posts with adjusters.

Coving has to be made up (a bit like skirting boards) to cover the settlement gap. More about this over the next few weeks. 

 Our house has a roof angle of around 22 degrees. Standard heat recovery system pipework comes with 45 degree or 90 degree bends so something flexible was needed to join vertical runs coming off the top of the heat recovery unit that go across the top of the house by passing through the rafter space. These runs have to be made with insulated pipe because as the pipe goes into a cold space above the sheepswool insulation there is a risk of condensation if the air has sufficient moisture in it.

So on our last visit to CVC (www.cvcdirect.co.uk) we got a short length of flexible Aluminium ducting, some worm drive clips and some bubblewrap and aluminium foil insulating sleeve and assembled it, using the foil tape to secure the outer insulation. Here’s one we prepared earlier.

This then slid into position a treat and bends nicely to fit into the busy space between the rafters. The Aluminium pipe needs a white plastic connector on the end to enable it to fit into the 125mm white plastic pipe coming up from the Heat Recovery Unit.

The giant worm drive clips supplied are really easy to use compared to a conventional clip of this sort.

 They have a hinging screw, so in a confined space you don’t have to spend ages doing them up, just close the clip as much as you can by hand, swing the hinging screw into position to engage the pierced stainless steel band on the screw thread and tighten the last bit with a screw driver.

 As well as having sockets to plug a normal vacuum hose into, the system has the option of a “dust pan” This is a fitting that goes into the plinth of a kitchen unit for example and has a stainless steel trim over it. The black switch on the front can be pushed with your shoe and any dirt or dust you have swept up with a brush gets sucked away. A great idea!

Tim Bartlett from CVC Systems takes back a box of odds and sods!  When you are working in three dimensions with pipework  for the heat recovery and central vacuum systems it is difficult to anticipate all the bits and pieces you might need, how much, what sort etc.

So it was great to be able to work with CVC and take unused parts back for credit as we got to the end of the job. This saves lots of unused plastic items sitting around unused which is good for the environment as less has to be made for the next customer!

Also as we go along we discovered new fittings that solved problems we discovered which we swoped for some of the returned bits and you can see some of them next week. If you are excited by pipework problems, this is the blog to watch!

 As we work through “first fix” the central vacuum pipe work is installed, all the joints are glued with solvent glue and then the sound insulation in the walls is worked around the pipework.

  With the pipes in place and glued up, wiring for the vacuum system (12 volt) is put in place attached to the face plates and with these pushed into the grey socket the system can be tested for leaks. Pushing the purpose made vacuum hose into the opened face plate on the grey socket switches the vacuum unit on (by the 12 volt wire) and with all the other sockets closed, you can go round and check by hand for any leaks (joints you forgot to glue) etc.

The wiring to each socket should be checked individually by going round and putting the vacuum hose into each socket one at a time and all of this needs doing while mistakes can be rectified before walls are “closed up” with the second side of plasterboard or other wall covering.

 Here is a handy bit of ducting! Two 90 degree rectangular bends joined by a bit of rectangular pipe to get into those awkward bits.

 Some of the stud walls in the house will be covered with conventional plasterboard, but some will be covered with log “siding”. This is 2″ thick Western Red Cedar that is profiled on one side to look like the inside face of the main outer wall logs. This is fixed to the stud work and then will look as if solid log extends into the house.

At just £10 per foot it is cheaper than using solid log!

We sand the planed factory finish with 80 – 120 grade paper with a hand sander and then apply the internal finish, sand again with 220 grade and then give a second coat to finish.

 Now tht the ceiling plasterboard is going up, we are gluing up our duct work for the heat recovery and comfort cooling sytems. here is a collection of “sub – assemblies” that have been glued up. This just leaves us the remaining joints to glue or tape with duct tape once the assemblies are slid into place.

The system has taken a lot more time to think through the routing than expected. Working in 3 dimensions with such large pipework is a challenge, even in a new house. It is certainly worth getting the basic pipe runs in place before the plumbers and electricians get too far into the job because firstly you may have to have boxing in in places that might be helpful for them, and it stakes your claim on bits of space!

 So here it is, some from black sheep, some from white, and of course there will be no problem getting to sleep at night with all those sheep to count!

 The 60 bags of sheeps wool insulation arrived and way so little it is childs play to move them around. We bought bags with 75mm thick, 60cm wide rolls 5 metres long. This suited our rafters which are mostly on 2 foot centres, the small difference is not an issue and the two layers of sheeps wool are just tacked in place using a small staple gun.

As the product is made by the http://www.blackmountaininsulation.com/ you expect to get some black sheepswool, and you do! (see bag on left!).

It is very easy to work with. You cut it with household scissors,  and holes for ducts and pipes are a doddle. There is no need for face masks and all the problems with irritation that can arise with man made insulation, particularly the fibre glass stuff.